Friday, May 17, 2019

A trip to Naltar Valley made me proud of Pakistan's natural beauty

An isolated haven of sheer beauty, Naltar lies tucked away from the hustle bustle of Gilgit-Baltistan's town and cities. Nestled among snow-topped peaks and towering forests, the valley is home to what is referred to like the tastiest potatoes in the world.

Every tourist's journey to Naltar begins by leaving behind the Karakoram Highway at Gilgit for an adventurous two-hour jeep ride. The fact that cars can't be driven from Gilgit to Naltar is a testament to the bumpy and somewhat arduous track. However, for those with the slightest clue of what beauty lies in the valley, the journey is simply part of the experience and is most certainly worth taking.



Reaching Naltar Bala, the center of the valley, one is absolutely spell-bound by the beauty of the area. What makes Naltar particularly unique is also that its forest cover is vaster than other areas of the country. The entire landscape is truly delightful to the eyes.
In the evening as the sunlight gradually disappears, the few residents of the valley return to their homes after working the fields during the day. Stars begin to emerge, which combined with the silence of the night, make for an exquisitely serene atmosphere. Further into the night, aided by the lack of light pollution, the Milky Way emerges from behind the mountains. The view leaves you absolutely speechless.


During the winters, Naltar offers a wonderful experience of skiing on its famous slopes that attract tourists by the droves. The ski resort is run by the Pakistan Air Force, along with the recently installed ski lifts that take skiers to the top of the slope.
Naltar is home to three magnificent lakes known collectively as the Bashkiri Lakes. Located at a distance of 13km from Naltar Bala, it takes about an hour of travelling on unmetalled roads to reach them. All along the route, which is a dirt track, glacial streams can be seen flowing across the verdant valley floor. Due to the ample vegetation, these are ideal grazing grounds, attracting Gujjar nomads who travel here with their cattle.

At two points in particular, the river and a large glacial stream cut across the track and as a result, the local jeep drivers are required to utilise their experience and skills in order to navigate them. During the winters however, these lakes remain inaccessible as the route is blocked by up to 15 feet of snow.

As the jeep made its way to the first lake on our way, I tried to picture the lakes I had seen in photographs before. But nothing prepared me for my first sight of Satrangi Lake. I was left awestruck.



After all, it was hard to believe that a lake could reflect as many colours as this one from having seen just a couple of pictures. True to its name which means seven coloured, the most prominent colors were blue, green and surprisingly, yellow, a colour I had never seen before in a lake. The calm, peaceful water lay still as the underwater plants particularly algae provided more color from under the pristine water surface



After spending a good 20 minutes just relaxing and admiring this marvel of nature, we moved on to the second lake, a 10-minute drive away.


The Pari Lake was completely different, however. Significantly larger than the Satrangi lake, this gorgeous alpine lake contained deep blue water sourced from natural springs and glacial melts. Boating on a locally-engineered float, I was informed by the navigator that the water enters the lake from underground and as such there is no stream or river above the lake which feeds water into it. It was interesting to see that a camp site was established with numerous colourful tents lined up along the shores of the lake.


While the two of these lakes were accessible via a jeep, the third one was not. We were told that we would need to trek for about 45 minutes to reach the third one. Determined to reach it, having heard the locals recommend it over the other two lakes, we soldiered on.

Beyond the Pari Lake, we started our trek along the mountain, walking over massive rocks. After 10 minutes of negotiating these rocks, we reached what appeared to be a massive maidan (plain area).



Suddenly our surroundings were completely different. The lush green carpet of summer grass could be seen stretching far and wide with a river flowing in between and streams coming down from the mountain slopes on either side.




Here, the snow-capped peaks were far more evident. As we passed by a nomad family residing in tents along the river, the guide told us that if we keep on going in the direction we were, we would head towards Chitral. But of course that was not our intention, some other time perhaps.

Climbing gradually again, higher up from the maidan down to our right, we arrived at the most beautiful lake I had ever seen!


Spending another 15 minutes, we sat at a point above the Firoza Lake, obtaining a magnificent panoramic view consisting of the lake, maidan, the river and the cerulean sky with giant, fluffy clouds

Rabia Aftab Traveler

If you're hoping to travel soon, Rabia suggests you "plan your trips yourself; wait for offers to book and plan a budget trip. All fancy hotels and airlines go on discounts." This will help you stick to a budget-friendly trip.
The key to travelling smart is "pack light but carry all that you need."
And if you're solo traveller trying to get an Insta-worthy photo, Rabia says "look for tourists with cameras. I frame my picture and ask other tourists to take the picture. Many times I have to take their picture first."
Though she's been travelling a while, she's had her share of embarrassing moments, like when "my card got declined at a restaurant abroad and I didn't have any cash. I promised to pay the restaurant the next day. All night I tried contacting my bank to get some cash. Luckily, the card started working the next day - my bank had blocked it for 1st Ramazan."

Farheen Qureshi Traveler

Farheen’s Insta feed is a joy. But there’s a lot of planning that goes behind it. “I always have a mood board and itinerary in my mind before traveling to a certain place so I try to capture the essence of those activities and then I swear by Lightroom.”
Her travel hack "is rolling your clothes like a burrito so that you have enough luggage space and don't go overweight."
And like most, her worry during travels is usually related to tipping. "When? Who? How much? Do I have enough small bills?"
For those who wish to start their own Instagram travel blog, Farheen has some solid advice: People will be really mean so develop a thick skin. Everyone will have opinions but at the end of the day, focus on your passion.

Mubashar Sadiq Traveler

Mubasher's Instagram usually features images of landscapes, but that's because "it's a personal preference not to be in a photo. I do photography to express myself in a way which I feel is unique for me."
Mostly traveling within Sweden and Norway, he says that those two countries along with Turkey and Vietnam are the best for solo travelers.
And if you ask him for travel advice, he'll straight up say, "Never fly."
"If you want to experience and learn more about traveling always try to plan your trip without flying. Could be strange for some, but for me, it's the best thing to experience." (He clarifies that he means when traveling within a country, even though otherwise would also be an adventure.)

Amtul Baweja and Fahad Tariq Khan

This cute travel duo featuring their travels on Insta is the first of its kind in Pakistan. "The idea [behind our page] is a Pakistani travel couple making the coolest travel videos, it's not unique to our generation but it is unique to Pakistan. We are officially the first Pakistani couple making travel videos."
But they say they are "definitely more than just a travel blog. It’s a platform that aims to create inspiring content; if there are any issues that need to be addressed/highlighted, we do that too. We feel it’s our responsibility to be REAL to our followers and also educate/engage/inform them in the process."
Traveling with a partner is definitely a "BIG PRO", not only do they both have similar interests, but they're aligned on the budget - much of which they also advise travel enthusiasts. "We make compromises on accommodation and food and spend more on activities and experiences. We’d rather eat from the street than in a fancy restaurant. We’d rather couch surf than stay at an overpriced hotel. for a more authentic, experience. Always make friends with the locals, they are the key to the real cool undiscovered places."

Huma Tariq Traveler

"The idea behind The North Drive is to encourage others like me, preferably women, to leave their comfort zone and have the courage to go out and have an adventure of a lifetime," says Huma, who has travelled to Pakistan's northern areas a number of times.
As a solo woman traveller she says she "definitely felt safe" during her travels. "I've been invited by many local women to their homes. Normally people from the city hesitate when they get an invite from a stranger but I think we need to leave that perception behind. The world is full of kind people."
Her advice to those wanting to travel up north: "Layers, layers and more layers. A pre-workout before heading for a trek, also try having a warm beverage with you while trekking in the snow."

Anam Hakeem Traveler


Anam has been traveling for years now and that’s only been possible because she saves. "Separate savings the moment you get your paycheck, convert them to dollars, keep them away. Also, be ambitious, work smart, aim to earn better. Travelling is expensive, and currency fluctuations make it even more so."
One travel hack she discovered is, "get a foldable water bottle. You'll never have to buy expensive water at the airport."
For solo women travelers, the world can seem daunting, but Anam says you have to be smart about navigating your way. "Research on neighborhoods. I was in Uganda and one night I didn't want to head out alone for dinner to a certain area so I asked a hostel mate to come with. We had a great conversation and I didn't have to walk alone."
Taking photos as a solo traveler is a challenge, she admits, but she frames the shot and then asks strangers to take the photo. "Rest is the magic of editing. I'm a self-taught Lightroom user."

Kevin Rushby Author, Journalist & Traveller

Biography

After I finished University (Newcastle) in 1982 I bought a one-way ticket to Cairo and set off traveling. Never having been abroad before I was understandably shocked on arrival in Cairo. Walking out the airport at 2 a.m. looking for a bus (no money for a taxi) I saw a line of people sleeping under their white sheets and joined them. Having built up a bit more courage later I ended up traveling through Egypt, Sudan, Central African Republic, Uganda, and Kenya. Several months later I was back in Sudan as an English teacher, first in Darfur, later in the south. The latter was a particularly intense experience. Yambio, the small town in Western Equatoria, was cut off by the civil war for much of the time and I was alone, the only foreigner most of the time. I did vast bicycle rides, journeying deep into Zaire, visiting only remote areas as I had no paperwork or visa. There was no electricity, no running water, no post, no telephone. When I came to write Paradise (published May 2006) I often thought of that time - it seemed like an experiment in living even then. To jump out of one's own world into another, one that offered the most extreme version of the rural retreat ever.
Eventually, the isolation was too much. I went to Kenya, then back to England to study education for a year (and in Madrid for some months), then to Yemen and Malaysia. It was in Kuala Lumpur that I started writing professionally, working for newspapers and magazines all across the Far East and South East Asia. Eventually, I went back to Yemen but the country fell apart in the Civil War of 1994 and I was back living in England for the first time in 12 years. Since then I've written books and articles, done some television, rather more radio. (Articles for the Guardian can be found on their website.) I'm now working on some book ideas to follow up Paradise.